A Trip to the Taj

Months ago, when Sue and I began making our plans to come to India, Sonny realized our time here would overlap. He made us promise that we would save a day to go with him to the Taj Mahal. A trip to the Taj with Uncle Sonny? Absolutely. We knew it would be memorable and we'd been looking forward to it all along.

We met early in the morning on Thursday for the 220 kilometer drive to Agra. As is typical for this time of year, Delhi was eerily silent in the thick fog. We piled into a hired car for the three hour drive. Usually the fog lifts mid-morning at the latest, but not this day. It was unusually persistent and driving was slow in places. We finally arrived in Agra around 11:00 and made our first stop at the Agra Fort. It's an impressive fortress, sitting on a promontory just across the river from the Taj. The pair of ancient buildings stand as silent monuments to a world of power, wealth, passionate love and familial vengence. All the necessary elements for a gripping story.






One of the best views of the Taj is from the fort. Not on this day, however. Though the sun was breaking through the clouds, only the outline of the white marble dome and minerets could be seen across the sandy riverbed. It was still majestic, though wearing a whispy mantle of white draped through its columns, towers and around its massive dome. Just before we went to lunch we'd gotten word that the Taj was closed to the public for a few hours because of a visiting delegation of VIPs. Somehow the driver had found out this information while we were wandering through the fort enjoying the scenery. We headed to a restaurant for a bite of lunch while we waited for the Taj to reopen.

We would have about 3 hours to wait, and around 5:00 the public was admitted. Until that point, we were not allowed to enter the ticket office but were kept behind a gate in a holding area. Once the office opened, there was a stampede unlike anything I had ever witnessed. Sometimes you hear about athletic fans storming the gates at a soccer match or black Friday sales at WalMart. We were smart enough not to be at the front of the pack but watch it charge ahead. Sonny pushed his way through like a cultured Indian gentleman. Nicely, politely, but with great determination.

There is something unusual about viewing one of the best known sites in all the world. It feels both like an old friend yet very new all at the same time. In the waning hours of daylight, the marble exuded an icy coldness especially in the encroaching fog.




As the evening drew on, the white marble was shrouded in inky darkness.


Pulling out of Agra, the fog began to settle in again. The drive was slow in places, coming nearly to a standstill on occasion. We all knew that what was typically a three hour drive would likely be much longer. We were ready to settle in for a slow journey. We had no idea. Around 10:30, traffic came to a complete stop. We sat for a few minutes and realized that cars were turning off their engines. Word moved from car to car that there was an accident ahead blocking the road. How long would we be there? The driver stayed attentive while the rest of us slept off and on. I woke somewhere around 1:30 and asked where we were. We had moved 5 kilometers in the past three hours. We weren't even half way home yet, and there was no hotel to pull in and spend the night. We were committed to finishing our journey to Delhi. Our driver pulled into a restaurant along the way for a cup of tea. He was told that a milk truck had hit another truck running it off the road, then jack knifed and completely blocked both lanes of traffic. A crane had to be brought in to remove the wreckage before traffic could move again.

We finally arrived at home at 5:00 in the morning---nearly 24 hours after we had gotten up the day before. At the end of the adventure, we stopped to pray, thanking God for bringing us safely home and for keeping us kind and loving to one another all along the way. We sensed His presence and His peace in the midst of a very trying situation.

We're reminded again of God's sovereignty in all things. Whether delayed in waiting to see one of the wonders of the world, safety on the road, navigating through unpredictable and difficult weather or treating one another with grace and peace in all circumstances, God's presence was obvious. I'm convinced that He put us through this for a reason, and we're still discerning that purpose. But for now, thank God with us for His presence and His peace in the midst of so much uncertainty and danger.

Church . . . rickshaws . . . and endless conversation

We're finally taking time for a blog post here. It's Tuesday afternoon in Delhi and we're having a wonderful time with our friends, Arvind and Karisa. It's a delight to see them here, in their own home, starting life and ministry together as husband and wife.

Sunday morning we worshiped with our Indian brothers and sisters at Delhi Bible Fellowship. For me, it was wonderful to be back with friends I had met a year ago. Sue loved being in a church that she's heard about and prayed for for years. Arvind has really grown into his role as senior pastor of the church, and Karisa is growing into a gracious pastor's wife. The congregation is growing and maturing as a body.

Monday, we headed into Delhi for a look around the city. We felt a bit like tourists, just getting a feel for this place where our friends live and work---seeing India through their eyes. We smashed into the subway with thousands of others people and emerged in Old Delhi, with its mazes of narrow alleys, Hindu temples, and Delhi's largest mosque. I am still amazed how rickshaw drivers thread their way through narrow alleys filled with carts, people, bikes, and motorcycles.

Everywhere we turn, we are reminded again of the needs in this part of the world. The sounds of the Muslim call to prayer echo out over the city. As we emerged from the subway, the clanging of a bell in front of a Hindu temple gets the attention of their god and announces the gift of a faithful follower. The pungent smell of incense rises to the heavens along with empty prayers. And the press of people everywhere we turn. Beggars grab our arms as we walk along the sidewalks and knock on our windows as we stop at red lights. Sue and I have often found ourselves in situations like these over the years. The one question we often ask each other is, Where do we even start to meet all the needs?

In the midst of walking, riding, eating and experiencing, the conversation has been endless. It's a delight to talk with Arvind and Karisa about life and ministry and dream about the future. In the midst of tremendous need, we're grateful for a God of hope who is alive and at work.

Pray for us this week as we not only spend time with our dear friends, but as we have opportunity to meet with others in the church as well. We want to listen well, encourage from the Word, deepen friendships, and honor Christ in all we do.

3 Flights, 3 Continents, 30 Hours

Just a quick post here to say we've arrived. It's noon on Saturday here in Delhi. Sue and I left our home in Brea at 7:30 on New Year's Eve morning, flew to San Francisco and caught our flight to Frankfurt. Best we can figure, we rang in the new year somewhere over Greenland---but we're not really sure. We had four hours on the ground in the Frankfurt airport, which was all we experienced of New Years Day. Then on to Delhi where we landed around 2:00 a.m. January 2. It was wonderful to see Arvind and Karisa's faces around 3:30 and finally crawl into bed at 4:00. We slept hard until 9:30.

Ok, major shout out to Karisa. Because their car is so small, Arvind and Karisa had to drive two cars to the airport to pick us up. Karisa's a pro! Through heavy traffic (yes, even in the middle of the night) pea soup fog, and right hand drive, she handled it like a pro! Arvind and Karisa are doing well, have a very comfortable home, and the conversation has already been fun and encouraging.

More later . . . but for now, praise God with us that we are safe, travels were unbelievably smooth, and we feel rested and ready to make the most of our time here.

Last Night in Delhi

It's late Thursday night here in Delhi . . . my final night in India. What a remarkable couple of weeks. I've got a long flight on Friday---four hours from here to Bangkok, two hour layover, then a 13 hour flight to LA. That will give me plenty of time to think, process, and reflect on these past few weeks.

Thanks for your prayers, notes, and emails along the way. I look forward to seeing how the Lord will continue to work here in India.

Can't wait to see you all when I get home.

Just a few people pictures here. I love the diversity and color of this culture . . .

A game of cricket in a vacant lot in our neighborhood.

In clothes, East meets West, tradition meets modernity.

Taking a break from work.

Stringing flowers.

It's Sunday afternoon here in Delhi. I had the privilege of preaching this morning at Delhi Bible Fellowship. Pastor Arvind has just begun a series on the Gospel, so I preached this morning from Romans 10, "God's One Message for ALL People." What a tremendous opportunity here in a land of syncretism and pantheism. I felt the freedom of the Spirit to speak the Word with authority and conviction. I had many conversations with people afterwards saying that this truly is one of the most important religious issues facing Indians today. Pray that the Spirit will work among these people and accomplish His work.

Yesterday, Arvind and I attended a board meeting of a local ministry---Indian pastors reaching villages and planting churches all over northern India. I was tremendously encouraged to see the vision and the passion of these brothers to bring the Gospel to the most unreached. The job is enormous, but I was challenged as I heard of their desire to do whatever was necessary to get it done. Afterward, we all had lunch together and I had the privilege to sit with some very choice servants of God and hear their stories.



Just five more days here . . . and I have a very full schedule. So far, I haven't even had an hour to go shopping and look for gifts to bring home. It's been really full. Hopefully this week will open up some of those more touristy opportunities.

Just yesterday, I had time to sit and think and dream. I don't know if the Lord is giving a vision for future ministry or if it's my own dreaming. We'll see. My sense is deeper than ever that God has great plans for our church and for the church here. Pray that those dreams and ideas are from him and that we'll move forward in faith.

Thanks for your prayers and your notes of encouragement. I have sensed the Lord's presence in an unusual way during my time here. Pray for these final days, more meetings, and opportunities to see other work going on here.

Amidst my travels and getting acquainted with India, I have had some wonderful opportunities to share the Gospel and minister to brothers and sisters here in this area. Wednesday afternoon, Sheila Massey invited me to her home to meet a group of people she is working with. Some are believers, some are not. They asked me to open the Word and share for a few moments. I opened to Romans 8, "There is therefore now no condemnation for those who are in Christ Jesus." What a delightful time of fellowship and teaching. They seemed genuinely interested and attentive.

After tea and sweets, they all left. One man, John, remained behind. (The man on the far right of the picture.) He had been silent during the meeting. Now we sat together in the living room, just the two of us. He asked if he could talk more personally with me. "Of course," I replied.

This young man is a pastor of two house churches in the area. His life is difficult. He's married, but gets little encouragement from his wife. I asked if she was a believer. "Well, she's a Methodist," was all he said. I read between the lines to discern his message. He is doing what He can to follow God's will, yet gets no encouragement from his wife or her family. He feels very much alone.

We talked for more than an hour and I was able to ask questions about his church, his challenges, and his needs. We prayed together, and then he went off to his church meeting that evening.

I tucked his newsletter in my Bible with a promise to pray for him. I hope our time was encouraging to him. Our conversation reminded me of all those who minister faithfully in unseen and unpretentious places. They are faithful, in spite of the challenges and the difficulties.

Pray for John. Pray for others like him who serve faithfully without fanfare and very little notice. What a privilege to hear his stories, to encourage him, and share in his ministry.

During my nearly one week in India, I have been impressed that there is more than one India. In her architecture and old buildings, one sees an India that must have been magnificent. Now covered with soot and shrouded in smog are wonderful old buildings that take you back to another era. But crowded around this old India is the India of today. The masses of people lining the streets, crowding the intersections, pushing, shoving, and winding their way through the mobs.

In the drive from Delhi to Agra, I felt ricocheted back and forth from one India to the other. At one point in our journey, we stopping for a moment and were overtaken by a man with a trained monkey, hawkers selling trinkets, and beggars rapping on our windows. I looked to the side and a man with a turban came along, put his basket on the ground and began playing a flute. He asked me for money. I ignored him. After a few minutes, he took off the lid and a cobra sprang up looking at me. I tried my best to ignore him, but it's hard to ignore a cobra staring at you while a turbaned man sits on the ground in his pajamas and plays his flute. Sheila Massey was sitting beside me giving advice. "Just ignore them or you'll have to give them money. We don't want to encourage this kind of activity." I looked straight ahead, but sneaked a glance sideways periodically. Now the man is petting the cobra. "Don't worry," Sheila remarked calmly. "The cobra has no fangs or poison. It's all for show."

As we entered Agra, on our way to the Taj Mahal, I was completely overwhelmed by the masses of people. Having lived in Asia for so many years, I thought I was immune to feelings of being over-crowded. Every inch of space, it seemed, was filled with a person lying on a cot, squatting on the sidewalk, leaning against a tree, eating, talking, watching a child play in the dirt, or doing nothing at all. The roads were filled with bikes, cars, buses, rickshaws, and people trying to cross from one side to the other. It seemed there were thousands of them. We wound down a few narrow, dirty streets, onto a wider street, and entered into the gates of the Taj complex. After parking the car, walking past the camel carts



and approaching the entrance gate, I realized we were stepping into the other India. The India of legend, grace and grandeur. The India of magnificent history, art, and architecture.

I remember having the same feeling on Tuesday that I had when I first visited Rome, turned a corner and there was the Colosseum. Or when I was in China, driving up the road, coming around a mountain, and there was the Great Wall. My first glimpse of the Taj Mahal was through a large gate made of red sandstone. The contrast was striking.




Stepping through the gate, there it sits. A mute monument to one of the greatest love stories of all time. I looked for a few moments, thinking it felt strangely familiar, yet brand new all at the same time.


This is the India I wish I could have seen generations ago. One can only imagine what it was like. Remnants of another era stand in silent watch over the hordes of people just outside the gate.

Inside the walls, it's easy to suspend the reality of life beyond the gate. Driving home, this was the India that I was overwhelmed with. This is the India of today. The teeming masses looking helpless and hopeless. Looking into the crowds, I asked Sheila, "Does it ever overwhelm you?"

"Oh yes, everyday," she replied.

My mind was drawn to Matthew 9:36: "And seeing the multitudes He felt compassion for them, because they were distressed and downcast like sheep without a shepherd."

That's the feeling I was left with Tuesday night. Overwhelmed by the past. Overwhelmed by the present. Overwhelmed by the need. I was reminded yet again that only God could meet the needs of these people.

Two Indias . . . one past and one present. The past is for the history books. The present, however, is filled with need and opportunity to bring God's glory to a people who desperately need Him.

Greetings. It's been a nice couple of days here in Delhi. I landed on Friday and had a fairly easy rest of the day here with Arvind. We walked around the neighborhood, ran a couple of errands, but mostly just relaxed.

Saturday was a full day at the church. We began the day with an early morning prayer breakfast and a nice time of fellowship with a few of the other people from the congregation. In the afternoon I joined Arvind and his roommate for a meeting with the youth group leaders (more like a young singles group) and had a great time with them. In the evening, the church held its first Family Life Conference with a good group in attendance. Arvind's mom and dad gave a very good presentation on parenting. It gave me a good opportunity to meet several people in the church and see some of the ministries they are involved in.

This morning was a great time of worship and teaching. The church was full and the worship was wonderful. I'm most impressed with the friendliness of this congregation. I've been very warmly welcomed by so many people. The biggest surprise so far is how cold it is here this time of year. I'm glad I was in China last week so I was prepared for cold weather.

This week, I'm looking forward to good conversations with Arvind and others here about some of their needs and the ways our congregation might come alongside and work together. I'll also be meeting on Tuesday and Wednesday with Sheila Massey. We'll be traveling to the Taj Mahal one day, and she'll be giving me a look at some of her ministries as well. I'm grateful to be here, getting a feel for the area and seeking the Lord's direction for us as well. Continue to pray for me, that I'll be sensitive to the Spirit's leading and open to all He has for us. Pray also for my time of study as I prepare to preach next Sunday.

In Delhi

It's Friday afternoon and I've arrived in Delhi. Today has been a good day of travel, being met by Arvind, and getting settled in his home. It's good to finally be here. We've already had plenty to talk about . . . I'm sure he's going to get tired of my millions of questions. It's the way I always enter a new area. I'm so curious to learn about everything. So, pray that I'll ask all the right questions and the Lord will direct our conversations.

Though today was uneventful, yesterday was quite a different story. Typically the flight from Kunming, China, to Bangkok was uneventful and quite routine. Yesterday was anything but typical. I arrived at the airport for my 3:20 flight to discover the time had been changed to 5:00. We boarded the plane, got settled in. And sat. And sat. And sat. Finally we were told that we would have to wait for the wind to change directions before we could take off. That was a new one to me. So we sat on the tarmac for more than 2 hours. We finally took off. En route to Bangkok, the pilot announced we would be making an unscheduled landing in Chiangmai, Thailand, to drop off the 100 or so passengers who would otherwise miss their connecting flight to Chiangmai out of Bangkok. We all had to disembark, go through immigration, get back on the plane and continue on to Bangkok. We finally landed just after 10:00 and were put on a bus to take us to the terminal. The bus dropped us off at the international terminal, and we followed all their instructions and wound up at immigration. That's where things got really messy. We had already cleard immigration, so the officials didn't know what to do with us. The airline personnel were confused. The passengers were all very tired, impatient, and getting very testy. Anyone who spoke Thai was yelling by now (which is very unusual in Thailand---you NEVER raise your voice). After a half hour or so, they finally figured out where our luggage was and what to do with us. We passed through a special screening area, and out into the baggage claim. Just after I left the holding area, I heard very loud yelling. Lots of it. It sounded like a riot. The next thing I knew, Thai police were charging past me and heading into the holding area. I could only think, "Great, I made it out before the riot started." I grabbed my bag and got out as quickly as possible. Normally, my curiosity would have gotten the better of me and I would have watched. Not this time. I finally got to the hotel, checked into my and looked at the clock. 11:20. I was supposed to have been here 7 hours ago. I had a 4:30 wake up call . . . just five hours away.

So, an uneventful day of travel was wonderful in a virtually empty plane. I'm looking forward to getting to know Delhi, seeing some of India, meeting other people around here, and seeking the Lord's plan and purpose for us as a church and for the people here. Keep praying. I'm grateful to be here and ready for all the Lord brings my way.

A Few Pictures from Kunming . . .

Wang Qui was Sue's first Chinese teacher. The other man is Dr. Doug Briggs. He and his wife are our dearest friends in China. He and I had the privilege of performing Wang Qui's wedding ceremony. The only wedding I've ever done all in Chinese! She now has a beautiful six year old daughter.



Luo Jian was my first Chinese teacher. He was impressed that I could still speak so well after being gone for two years. He was a great teacher, a dear brother, and a good friend. He was the one who gave me my Chinese name: Jin Le Ping, which means "Man of Peace."




Morning exercises in the park across the street from our old house.



Greenlake Park. Still my favorite place in Kunming. This was my "de-stress" place for all the years we lived here. Take a stroll through here . . . and fall in love with China all over again.

Sunday Night, China

It's late Sunday evening. Had a great day. It was wonderful being in our former church this morning. I preached from 2 Chronicles 20 about the need for courageous faith, focusing on the character of God, His faithfulness in the past, and our confidence to trust Him for the future. There were so many old friends to greet and former coworkers to catch up with. It was truly wonderful. By the time we left church, I had every lunch and dinner opportunity scheduled for all the days I'm here.

It's hard to describe the joy of walking through our old neighborhood, running into old friends and chatting and catching up with them. So many of the shopkeepers are still in the neighborhood, the tailors who made our clothes, the restaurants where we liked to eat. It's been a delight to hear of their lives and for some their growing faith.

This afternoon, a friend and I strolled through my favorite old part of the city. It's a large park with a lake in the middle. Very old Chinese layout and design. We stopped to watch dancers, listen to musicians, and enjoy the beauty of old Kunming. What a delight. We then sat over dinner for more than two hours, just sharing wonderful fellowship and talking about matters of faith and work.

Thanks for your prayers. I have appointments all these next three days with various people. Lots of opportunity for encouragement, ministry, and fellowship. Pray for wisdom and stamina with so many appointments. I want to give each one all that I can.

In China . . . at Last!

This is going to be really short. It's nearly midnight here in China. I've just arrived at my friends' home and am getting ready for bed. I left LA Thursday night at 9:30, and finally arrived in Kunming Saturday night at 10:30. I feel like I've been awake for three days. But I can't tell you how good it is to be here. I instantly wrote Sue and said, "It feels like I was just here last week." More later . . . but just know I'm here safe and sound.

In Bangkok

Hi from Bangkok. I arrived this morning after a very long 18 hour flight from LAX. I got on the plane at 9:30 Thursday evening (New Years night) and got off the plane at 7:00 Saturday morning in Bangkok. No Friday.

After clearing immigration and customs, I went directly to the customer service desk to explain my situation regarding. They couldn't have been nicer. They gave me two options for getting to Kunming today. One was to fly through Vientienne, Laos, then connect on to Kunming arriving this afternoon. The other was to fly later tonight direct to Kunming, arriving at 10:30. Normally I would have jumped at the chance to go to another country (even if only for two hours) but after 18 hours of flying and very little sleep, I opted for the later direct flight. No connections and transfers. So, to compensate me even further (as though that weren't enough!) they put me in a really nice hotel, and gave me vouchers for breakfast and lunch.

So, I'll be in China this evening, in my old church tomorrow morning, and among dear old friends and coworkers. Keep praying for the Spirit's presence and leading all along the way.

Last minute prayer request

Late at night New Year's Eve, I went on-line to check in for my flight today. As I was checking in, I looked over my itinerary and discovered that Thai Air has changed its schedule into Kunming, China. They no longer fly on Saturdays, so they've re-booked me on the Sunday flight. Unfortunately this means that I won't be able to be in my old church on Sunday morning. I have two other options before me, and I need to know what the Lord has in mind. Option one: there is a flight on another airline later in the evening. I can't book this until I land in Bangkok (not unusual for Chinese airlines). Option two: Our former agency is having their annual conference in Bangkok at this time. If I'm stuck overnight, I'll probably go there and catch up with some of our old coworkers. I'm asking the Lord if there are a few divine appointments He's setting up for me.

Please pray about these things with me. I'm holding it all very loosely and want only His best in this.

Another Asian Adventure

It's New Year's Eve, 2008. The stacks around me are growing as I prepare to leave in just over 24 hours for Asia. 9:30 New Year's night, to be exact. I hope that I will be able to keep in touch with all of you regularly through this blog.

A number of people have asked me about the purpose of this trip. In brief, it's two-fold. First, I'll be in Kunming, China, from Saturday, 1/3, until Thursday 1/8. I'll be preaching this Sunday morning at Kunming International Fellowship---the church I helped plant and which I served as head elder for seven years. The rest of the time, I'll be meeting with friends and former coworkers and simply enjoying time in our old home.

On Friday, 1/9, I arrive in Delhi, India, where I will be for two weeks. There I will meet with the pastor of Delhi Bible Fellowship as well as other nationals in order to discern how our church might come alongside them in more strategic and effective ways as partners in ministry, reaching northern India with the Gospel. I will also be meeting with other workers from our former agency to see the work they have been doing in that area. During this time, I will also be preaching in Delhi Bible Fellowship (Sunday, 1/18) as well as other opportunities that spontaneously come up (as they always do!).

I appreciate your prayers as I travel. I would ask specifically for three things:
1) That I will be attentive to the leading of the Spirit at all times. That I will go to the places He has prepared for me, meet the people He has for me to talk with, and listen with the ears of my heart. Ask that I would truly see the things He wants me to see---not only with physical eyes, but with the eyes of my heart.
2) That in my meetings with people, we would gain the vision God has for us. Pray for a clear sense of His leading through our conversations and a sense of unity as we seek the Lord together.
3) That when I return, God would use all of this to expand our vision as a congregation. I have a keen sense that He is doing something significant in our body. Ask that we as a congregation would be faithful and committed---no matter what.

Of course, please pray for my wife, Sue, as she is here at home. For 27 years, we have worked as a team, so I will be missing her perspective and the daily opportunities to debrief together. Not to mention the sheer joy of another adventure together.

India has often been in the news lately. A number of people have asked if I'm nervous about my safety in such a potentially dangerous place. Again and again, the Lord has brought to our minds Acts 20:22-24: "And now, behold, I am going to Jerusalem, constrained by the Spirit, not knowing what will happen to me there, except that the Holy Spirit testifies to me in every city that imprisonment and afflictions await me. But I do not account my life of any value nor as precious to myself, if only I may finish my course and the ministry that I received from the Lord Jesus, to testify to the gospel of the grace of God."

Pray for opportunities to do just that: "testify to the gospel of the grace of God." Nothing else is important. Nothing.

I will stay in touch as I'm able. Thanks for your prayers.

Tom